Siberia, from Baikal to Omsk

On the 22nd September after two months in the vast expanse and wilderness of Mongolia, we exit this otherwise unfenced land at Atlan Bulag, the Northern route towards Lake Baikal. The first days driving brings us to the shores of Baikal, the largest fresh water lake in the world holding more than 75% of the worlds fresh water. This ancient lake has more volume than all of the American great lakes put together and is so clear in parts that one gets vertigo when looking down into its depths.

This road in Siberia that drives through Irkutsk, to Omsk, and on through to The Urals is fringed with an almost unbroken line by the Russian Taiga for thousands of kilometers. In many places one can see as far the eyes reach, the amazing mix of dissiduous and evergreens that make up the spectacular sight of this immense forest.

It is Autumn time here in Siberia and the amazing display of colours fans out in a resplendent palate of yellows, oranges and reds, all made starkly alive by the contrasting rich greens of the pines and furs.

In order to reach the Latvian border within the allowed 12 days of our transit visa, we must drive an average of 700 km per day. The trucks cruising speed on the Siberian roads is no more than 60 kmh, and with stops being made we are driving for about 14 hours each day. On the third day of driving we notice some rattling noises coming from the middle of the truck and upon inspection we find that one of the couplings from the first drive shaft is about to fall apart. With no spare parts at hand we drive carefully on to Omsk where we search out a mechanic to fix the problem.

In Omsk we find two Russian advocate Lawyers that, alongside their law business have a café/bar, a Spa/Banya, and a tyre changing garage. Dimitri and Alexander very easily befriend us and soon make arrangements for ‘Ghengis’ to be fixed. Their incredible hospitality soon reminds everyone of the warm generous spirit of the Siberians which we had already encountered on our way to Mongolia.

The spare part for the drive shaft is not available here in Omsk so a ‘Siberian’ solution is found to the problem. The 4 wheel drive is disengaged and the coupling from the rear driveshaft is swapped for the damaged one at the front. After being fed and washed and having the truck fixed, Dimitri and Alexander wish us well and send us on our way with no bill to pay for any of their kind and generous help.

We pull out of Omsk in our now 2 wheel drive truck, another 5000 km left to drive, and now with the short delay we have to make up with an average of 800km driving each day to reach our objective in time.

Ramsay.